Philodendron
Philodendrons are among the
most common and easy-to-grow houseplants. Many tolerate low light and
neglect. If well treated, they will be beautiful and dependable for many
years.
HEIGHT/SPREAD
The vining types can be
limited in height by the height of their support and by training and
pruning. The self-heading types eventually can become very large and
should be given ample space.
ORNAMENTAL FEATURES
This diverse group of plants
ranges from vines with 3-inch heart shaped green leaves to vines with
leaves 3 feet long. Some types have glossy solid green leaves, others
have velvet textured patterned leaves, while some have deep red leaves
and stems.
While the most common types
of philodendrons are vining, some are self-heading. Self headers send
out leaves from a heavy clump of growth at their base. These often have
dramatically large leaves in a variety of shapes.
CULTURE
Most philodendrons prefer
indirect or curtain-filtered sunlight but will tolerate low light. The
common heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron scandens) will
tolerate very low light. Night temperatures of 65 to 70 °F and day
temperatures of 75 to 85 °F are ideal.
Water frequently enough to
keep the soil evenly moist, but not soggy. Never let the plants stand in
water. High humidity is ideal for best growth, but philodendrons
tolerate the low level of humidity in most homes.
Fertilize philodendrons
regularly with a dilute water-soluble houseplant fertilizer, or use a
time-release fertilizer.
You can repot overcrowded
plants at any season, using a general-purpose potting soil. Plants may
be propagated at any season from stem cuttings, or by air layering. Some
philodendrons will produce offsets.
PROBLEMS
In the home, plant diseases
are very rarely a problem. Too much or too little water plus insects and
mites are the main problems. Root rot usually results from a soil mix
that does not drain quickly or overly frequent watering.
Yellowing of lower leaves and
the death of the growing tips can be caused by too little light or
overwatering. Too much fertilizer can cause tips of leaves to curl and
brown. The long leaf stalks of self-heading types are brittle. Locate
these plants out of traffic paths to avoid damage.
While philodendrons are
generally pest-free, aphids, mealybugs, scales and spider mites can
infest them.
Some philodendrons contain a
chemical that causes a burning sensation and can be toxic if the foliage
is eaten. Keep philodendrons away from any pets or young children that
may eat plants.
SPECIES AND CULTIVARS
Fiddle Leaf Philodendron
(P. panduriforme):
This philodendron is a
climber with 12-to 18-inch, fiddle-shaped, leathery leaves that are
olive green. It is slow growing and durable.
Tree Philodendron (P.
bipinnatifidum):
Tree philodendrons have a self-heading growth habit. The large, dark
green leaves have deep irregular slits and can grow up to 3 feet long on
a robust, erect stem. This can grow to be a very large plant and will be
too large for most homes. Tree philodendrons grow best with medium to
bright light near an east, west or south window.
Heartleaf Philodendron (P.
scandens):
This well-known philodendron has 2- to 4-inch dark green, heart-shaped
leaves. Heartleaf philodendron is commonly grown in hanging baskets,
dish gardens and as groundcover in larger planters. It may also be
trained upwards on bark-or moss-covered boards or totem poles.
This plant is quite tolerant
of low light conditions. It will grow well under artificial or existing
room light, or near a north, east or west window. Heartleaf
philodendrons grow well in warm temperatures of 70 to 85 ° F during the
day and 65 to 75 ° F at night. These are very easy and adaptable plants.
There are two common variants
of heartleaf philodendron. They may occasionally be listed as separate
species.
Common Heartleaf
Philodendron or Parlor Ivy (P. scandens
f. oxycardium) This
form has glossy, green leaves that are bronzed when young.
·
‘Aureum’ has very showy chartreuse leaves on a sturdy
plant.
·
‘Variegatum’ has gray, green and cream streaked
leaves. It shows more variegation in a cool, shaded environment.
Velvet Philodendron (P.
scandens f.
micans) This philodendron has velvet-textured heart-shaped leaves
that are usually bronze with reddish brown undersides.
·
‘Miduhoi’ is sometimes known as "Jumbo Velvet Hearts". It
is larger than the species with broad coppery leaves.
·
"Silver Sheen" has silvery green leaves.
Elephant’s Ear
Philodendron (P. domesticum):
The narrow, arrow-shaped
leaves of this climber are 18 to 24 inches long with wavy margins.
Red-leaf Philodendron
(P. erubescens):
This sturdy climber has 10-to 16-inches, dark green leaves that are red
to copper on the underside. The stems are reddish-purple while young.
There are several cultivars selected for their color.
-
‘Burgundy’ has reddish leaves, burgundy veins and red stems. The 8-to
12-inch leaves glisten as though polished.
-
‘Red Empress’ is the only philodendron available that has a colored
and lobed leaf. The deeply lobed leaves on this self-heading cultivar
are reddish.
-
‘Black Cardinal’ is a self-heading philodendron, with large, 8-to
10-inch long leaves. New foliage emerges bright burgundy-red and ages
to nearly black.
Birdsnest Philodendron
(P. imbe):
This climber, with long, aerial roots and red stems, has 14 inch
arrow-shaped leaves that are red on the underside.
Velour Philodendron
(P. melanochrysum):
Striking heart-shaped,
velvety leaves grow up to 3 feet long. They are blackish green with pale
green veins. This is a climbing philodendron. As with most philodendrons
, its leaves will not reach full size unless the plant is trained
vertically for several years. Several hybrids with other species have
produced very decorative leaf patterns.
Split Leaf Philodendron (Monstera
deliciosa):
This large-leafed plant is not a true philodendron but is closely
related. Its leaves are small and round when they first emerge, but
develop holes and deep cuts as they mature. It is also known as the
Swiss cheese plant. Monsteras can be grown like a tree philodendron.
They will not develop the interesting perforations in their leaves if
the light level is too low.
Prepared by
Karen Russ, HGIC Information Specialist, and Al Pertuit, Extension
Floriculture Specialist, Clemson University.
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